Thursday, September 7, 2023

Our First Multi-Night Sail to Rarotonga

 Day 9-12 - Saturday thru Tuesday, September 2-5


As of our last post we were thinking that our departure from Bora-Bora would be around 6 or 7 pm September 1.  But when the latest weather data was analyzed it indicated that the planned time of departure would put us in Rarotonga around 4 or 5 am.  This would mean sailing in circles for a few hours until we had enough light to enter the harbor pass and anchor.


We decided instead to depart at midnight the morning of September 2nd which the models indicated would get us to our destination mid-morning September 5th.  We all went to bed early and Xavier and Mickey got up before midnight and left the dock at 00:00 (Midnight).  Within 30 minutes we had all the dock lines and bumpers stowed, raised the mainsail, traveled through Bora-Bora’s pass, unfurled the genoa sail and set a direct course for Rarotonga.


Xavier and Mickey would split the remaining night hours with Xavier taking the first half and Mickey the second.  After we got far enough from Bora-Bora to get away from the island wind effects we began sailing with the Pacific Trade Winds, which were light at the time, between 12 and 18 knots.  However we also had some heavy seas with 4M (~13ft) swells.  We expected rough seas the first day but the models indicated the seas would calm down the remainder of the passage.


The sail from Bora-Bora would take 3.5 nights and 3.5 days.  As mentioned in a previous blog, night sailing requires a crew member to maintain continual watch.  We decided on the following watch schedule:

  • 6 pm to 8 pm - Carol

  • 8 pm to 10 pm - Xavier

  • 10 pm to Midnight - Mickey

  • Midnight to 2 am - Carol

  • 2 am to 4 am - Xavier

  • 4 am to 6 am - Mickey


This allows each crew member to have two 4-hour periods to sleep per the following:

  • Mickey - 6 pm to 10 pm and Midnight to 4 am

  • Carol - 8 pm to Midnight and 2 am to 6 am

  • Xavier - 10 pm to 2 am and 4am to 8 am


Granted, none of us gets a full 8 hours of sleep during these watch nights so we all enjoy a nap or two during the day.


After an uneventful night and morning the seas did begin to calm down and the winds remained light. Despite the light winds wes still managed to cover 80 Nautical Miles over the first 12 hours. Here’s what we woke up to in the morning.




















The entire first day was also uneventful as we passed a good ways south of Maupiti.  There was about an hour of sunshine but for the most part the skies were overcast and we made good time. 


The evening brought a quick squall with a shower, winds of 25 kts (knots), sea swells of 5 M (~17 ft)) and some excitement.  Mickey had gone to bed so Xavier and Carol reefed both the genoa and main sails (reefing makes the sails smaller than normal to reduce power).  We sailed with the reefs in place all night as the winds stayed strong around 20 kts and the skies remained cloudy.















Early the second morning the skies cleared and the seas calmed into a beautiful picturesque blue world of sea and sky.  




















Wind was perfect as we began to gain time on our projected scheduled arrival.  The entire day we enjoyed and relaxed with the realization that we had not seen another boat or human since we left BoraBora nearly 2 days ago!


The entirety of day two was relaxed and restful as conditions were excellent and good time was made. We passed the halfway point between 0800 (6 pm) and 0900 (7 pm) that evening, right on schedule.



















The second full night was the same and we entered our third day of sail with projected changing conditions, strong winds (20-30 kts) with light showers later in the day and overnight.  The seas were expected to remain relatively calm making it perfect for keeping up pace with our projected mid-day arrival the next day.


At 1020 in the morning we had a radar echo indicating our first contact with another boat since leaving Bora-Bora.  However it ended up just being a small rain squal.  Still not a sign of any other vessel for nearly 3 days!


As promised, winds picked up in the afternoon and got heavier during the 3rd full night.  Clouds and rain squalls appeared as well as rough seas of 3M (~10 ft) waves and 3M swells.  This made for a very busy night for both Xavier and Mickey as they let Carol sit this one out after her first shift.  The good news was that with all the wind and rough seas our speed was greater than projected and we were a little ahead of schedule.


The last morning arrived and the island of Rarotonga was spotted shortly after sunrise, about 35 NM away.  With the seas still rough and the winds high we entered the Avatu Harbour around 12:30 to begin the customs process.  















Never to disappoint, this customs process involved 4 departments; Customs, Police, Vessel Immigration and Visitor Imigration. We were only able to be processed by 3 of the four by the end of the day.  Meanwhile the weather turned nastier as torrential rains and winds buffeted the harbor and we had to leave the concrete dock and anchor in the harbor to ride out the storm overnight.  With the end of day 12 we leave you with some of Carol’s thoughts. 


Carol’s Observations:

Mickey is chronicling the technicalities of the sail. I thought I would add some color commentary from a non-sailor’s perspective.


I have experienced sailing with Mickey for many years. Mostly, we sailed in lake Grapevine and San Diego harbor. Both were great for learning, but sailing the South Pacific for days on end is a very different experience as you can imagine. But I’ve gotten my “sea legs under me”, as they say. That’s not to say it’s easy, but I’m learning how to manage. And, yes, I’m enjoying the journey.


We are taking turns in the galley (kitchen). Imagine trying to cut something with a knife as the boat lifts, bounces, twists and tries it’s best to hurl you through the air. You try and anticipate the movements with super wide legs and ALWAYS holding on to a bar. Anything you try to do takes about 3 times longer than on land because you are always holding on or waiting for a large wave and swell to dissipate. But, what else do we have to do?!? 


Sleeping is another adventure. Imagine trying to sleep on a roller coaster! Our cabin is small but very functional and our berth (bed) is between a full and queen size. The shape is wider at one end (which is where our heads go) and is narrower at the other end. In order to sleep during the roiling seas, it took a little experimenting and finding a way to keep from rolling side to side. I found that sleeping on my side with my back against the wall of the cabin created the most stable position. Mickey has found a way to position his elbows out to side to create his stability. Everything is an adventure!


We’re heading south, so it’s going to get colder. What?!? That doesn’t sound right. But in the southern hemisphere, it obviously is. We actually had to add a light comforter to our bedding last night. We woke to a chilly morning with rain and wind. The silver lining was this beautiful double rainbow.
















My yoga and Pilates students asked if I planned to do classes on the boat. Believe me, just moving from one area of the yacht to another, going to the bathroom, brushing your teeth, showering, cooking a meal, sleeping, etc. is all the core, strength and stability classes I need for now.


When Mickey and I discussed me joining the journey as a 3rd crew member, I must admit that I had my reservations. I couldn’t imaging sailing for days on end with no land in sight. What would I do with my time? Well, I’ll tell you, there’s always something to do. And since everything takes longer, the days are filled with work and adventure. I have managed to work on one crossword puzzle and write in my journal some. Overall, the journey has been great so far.


Will have more soon!

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